EDWARD CRUTCHLEY AW22 London Fashion Week – SEASON 17
“…the queerness of Gothic is such that its main function is to demonstrate the relationship between the marginal and the mainstream.’’
— Queering the Gothic
RUN OF SHOW
Look one
Powder-coated steel screw closure nipple-clamp earring with palladium coated logo made by Victoria Rickard Moth hole dress in velvet, bouclé and viscose yarns knitted by Kbn Knitwear*
Upcycled distressed leather platforms embellished with studs, rings and laces made by ROKER**
* A combination of intricate lace patterns and single bed intarsia and partial knitting creates this mosaic pattern. The luxury handle of the soft velvet yarn, the textured loops of the bouclé and the compact stretch of the elastane combine to give a sensual feel.
** Named after an area of founder Alim Latif’s native Sunderland seaside hometown, ROKER is known for its uncompromising fluidity and graphic line. This is ROKER’s second season collaborating with Edward Crutchley.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcI6VBn7ZpA
Look two
Powder-coated steel screw closure nipple-clamp earring with simulation oversized pearl and palladium coated logo rondels
Palladium coated brass and diamante triple logo choker
Palladium coated brass and diamante logo brooch
Structured shoulder double breasted coat in duffle weave wool
Oversized doeskin wool coat worn as skirt
Upcycled distressed leather platforms embellished with studs, rings and laces
Look three
Powder-coated steel screw closure nipple-clamp earring with simulation oversized pearl and palladium coated logo rondels
Palladium coated brass and diamante triple logo choker
Palladium coated brass and diamante logo brooch
Structured shoulder double breasted long coat in duffle weave wool
Contrast plaited rib tube dress knitted in velvet and viscose yarns
Doeskin wool shirt worn as belt*
Upcycled distressed leather platforms embellished with studs, rings and laces
* Purposefully tied coats, shirts and jackets around the waist heighten the sense of the cinched, covered body.
Look four
Powder-coated steel screw closure nipple-clamp earring with palladium coated logo
Moth wing mohair jacquard long cardigan made by Knitup*
Hand-knitted reverse stitched Fair Isle oversized cardigan
Upcycled distressed leather platforms embellished with studs, rings and laces
* Knitup is a Hong Kong based knitwear design platform with a technology-first approach to manufacturing.
Look five
Powder-coated steel screw closure nipple-clamp earring with palladium coated logo Padded crushed velvet soft shoulder coat
Hand knitted reverse stitched Fair Isle oversized jumper
Plaited rib tube dress knitted in velvet and viscose yarns
Upcycled distressed leather platforms embellished with studs, rings and laces
Look six
Powder-coated steel screw closure nipple-clamp earring with rhodium coated logo
Soft shoulder padded leather bomber with suede panels
Moth wing print organic silk high collar shirt
Dogtooth wool worsted over shirt*
Bugle bead embellished washed silk sprinter shorts embroidered by The London Embroidery Studio Contrast plaited rib thigh high knit stockings
Upcycled distressed leather platforms embellished with studs, rings and laces
* Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the name of which derives from Worstead, a village in the Norfolk.
Look seven
Powder-coated steel screw closure nipple-clamp earring with palladium coated logo Soft shoulder padded leather coat with suede panels
Moth wing mohair jacquard long cardigan
Upcycled distressed leather platforms embellished with studs, rings and laces
Look eight
Powder-coated steel screw closure nipple-clamp earring with palladium coated logo Moth wing chiné* print recycled polyester high point bustier with waterfall bow Dogtooth wool worsted midi-length wrap skirt
Upcycled distressed leather platforms embellished with studs, rings and laces
* Chiné means mottled in appearance due to the warp being dyed in different colours or coloured threads being twisted together. Ikat – under the name chiné – became popular in mid-18th century Europe as enthusiasm for the East grew. Textile historian Leimomi Oakes writes: “The name chiné literally means ‘Chinese’ in French, because of the fabric’s association with China and the East. Though the first examples probably did come from China, by the 1760s France was producing its own warp printed chiné fabrics.”
Look nine
Powder-coated steel screw closure nipple-clamp earring with simulation oversized pearl and palladium coated logo rondels
Moth wing chiné print recycled polyester Gigot sleeved bodice*
High point bustier in washed silk
Washed silk midi-length wrap skirt
Upcycled distressed leather platforms embellished with studs, rings and laces
* Gigot: a full at the shoulder, tightly fitted to the wrist sleeve also known as a “leg-of-mutton” sleeve. This bodice has been made using an original 1830s pattern for an evening gown which features in Janet Arnold’s seminal book series Patterns of Fashion.
Look ten
Powder-coated steel screw closure nipple-clamp earring with palladium coated logo Leather overshirt with top stitch and suede panels
Velvet jersey baby-locked off the shoulder top*
Crushed velvet sprinter shorts
Moth hole leggings knitted in velvet, bouclé and viscose yarns
Upcycled distressed leather platforms embellished with studs, rings and laces
* “Experience has taught me that mystical magic is the result of many years of hard work full of trials and errors.” — Mr Sakuma, the inventor of the baby-lock overlock machine, speaking before US dealers at a trade fair in 1997.
Look eleven
Powder-coated steel screw closure nipple-clamp earring with palladium-coated logo RWS certified wool worsted drop lapel jacket*
RWS certified wool-silk high collar shirt
RWS certified wool deep pleat trousers
Upcycled distressed leather platforms embellished with studs, rings and laces
* This wool is woven by leading textile manufacturer Bower Roebuck using Responsible Wool Standard yarns (RWS). The RWS is a voluntary benchmark that is working to ensure a strong chain of custody for certified materials as they move through the supply chain.
Look twelve
Powder-coated steel screw closure nipple-clamp earring with palladium coated logo Wool and mohair canvas drop lapel oversized jacket
Bugle bead embroidered washed silk high collar shirt
Leather deep pleat gym pants with suede panels
Upcycled distressed leather platforms embellished with studs, rings and laces
Look thirteen
Powder-coated steel screw closure nipple-clamp earring with palladium coated logo Moth hole bi-colour leotard knitted in velvet, bouclé and viscose yarns*
Contrast plaited rib thigh high knit stockings
Upcycled distressed leather platforms embellished with studs, rings and laces
* The overlap of queer theory and Gothic literature was a key inspiration this season. In both is a celebration and fear of the outsider. The knits and textures this season explore notions of the monstrous, and in particular how gay men’s bodies were feared at the height of the Aids crisis.
Look fourteen
Powder-coated steel screw closure nipple-clamp earring with palladium coated logo Soft shoulder crushed velvet padded bomber with contrast panels
Moth wing mohair oversized rollneck
Oversized doeskin wool coat worn as skirt
Upcycled distressed leather platforms embellished with studs, rings and laces
Look fifteen
Powder-coated steel screw closure nipple-clamp earring with palladium coated logo Crushed velvet padded overshirt with contrast panels
Crushed velvet padded deep pleat gym pants with contrast panels
Upcycled distressed leather platforms embellished with studs, rings and laces
Look sixteen
Powder-coated steel screw closure nipple-clamp earring with simulation oversized pearl and palladium coated logo rondels
Recycled polyester lurex and bouclé fil coupé jacquard Gigot sleeved prom dress*
Upcycled distressed leather platforms embellished with studs, rings and laces
*This fil coupé jacquard was developed with Gentili Mosconi in Como, Italy. “Fil coupé” translates directly to “silk with cut thread” – it is a special weaving technique in which the binding threads are sliced open to create a feathered edging.
Look seventeen
Powder-coated steel screw closure nipple-clamp earring with palladium coated logo Moth hole off-the-shoulder top knitted in velvet, bouclé and viscose yarns*
Washed silk belt with waterfall bow
Gathered column skirt with pointed waist band in crushed velvet**
Upcycled distressed leather platforms embellished with studs, rings and laces
* The expressive details of Gothic architecture which mirror the sinuous lines of the decaying body has influenced the focus on clothes that both celebrate and disguise the flesh.
** This velvet is made by Denholme, located just outside the West Yorkshire market town of Keighley, where Edward Crutchley was born.
Look eighteen
Broken tiara made by Stephen Jones Millinery*
Powder-coated steel screw closure nipple-clamp earring with simulation oversized pearl and palladium coated logo rondels
Crushed velvet high point bustier prom dress
Recycled polyester lurex and bouclé fil coupé jacquard belt with waterfall bow
Hand crocheted floor length frilled cardigan
Upcycled distressed leather platforms embellished with studs, rings and laces
*For their seventh collaboration, Stephen Jones was inspired by the leitmotifs of faded grandeur within Gothic literature: “Your tiara might be broken, but it still shines bright,” he declares.